This spring, we tackled a small project that turned into a major one that was going to turn into an even more major one and then we got sidetracked… and then it was October.
Long story short, the workshop was stripped bare and reorganized.
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Ellen lives a few streets over and needed a new door… as most folks know, the original doors are hollow-core 1-3/8 interior doors — not really suited for exterior use… especially 50+ years of exterior use.
She has the same model as we do (and the same as Chris/Sara and Lindsey/Jeff and Chris/Laura, Glen/Molly and Judith/David…) so it was a fairly familiar fit. However, in a past repair, someone had jacked up the framing a good bit which necessitated a good bit more repair work around the jamb, including sawing out the old bore-locations and replacing with new redwood… (tip: this is how it's s'posed to be done… leave the Bondo at home, kids).
Ellen also opted for both the top and bottom plates. As an avid cyclist (and grandmother of rowdy kids), protection at the bottom corner from kicks and tires will be nice.
She likes it so much, she's started to dress like it. 😉
… and there's a good bit more landscaping and construction going on around the house, too.
On the side of the MicroEichler, there was an under-used space that needed a purpose. I had been wanting to put either an outdoor shower or a potting area (we need to latter more than the former) and both could have benefited from a flat, even surface. It gave me the perfect opportunity to further test the new CaliBamboo BamDeck and perfect the install technique with the Camo Marksman driver. Ironically, the key to success was with a competitor's product.
[Facia still needs to be installed, but the structure and deck-top are complete…]
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(or… my Dutch neighbor's new non-Dutch door).
Judith and David needed a new door… it's good thing they lives across the street. This was one of the most convenient, yet time-intensive installs yet. Convenient in that the workshop was 150 feet away… time intensive in that I've never put so many coats of paint on a door before (*it took 1/2 gallon of paint to get full, opaque coverage — about 8 coats).
They also have an original electro-piezo entry buzzer that they wanted to retain, so I was able to restore it — and the jamb around it for better-than new appearance and mortise a deadbolt and plate for full security.
The first step was stripping the frame of the existing stops (I replace them with new wood on every install) and five decades of paint. Once back to the original redwood base, the process of reconstructing the jamb could begin.
All in all, although a bit more in the time-department that we initially bargained for, it's a very nice upgrade from the previous state.
(*for a number of Home-Depot-related reasons, we did not use the tried/true Behr Premium Plus Ultra on this door… and paid the price in multiple coats. On the next install, I might try their Marque line which guaranteed one-coat coverage… a guarantee I'll gladly take them up on.)
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It was a double-Dutch-door week with the install of Mendi and Mike's door… and now Monica and Ron's. Interestingly enough, they were coincidental and also identical — Monica and Ron's actually served as a template for Mendi and Mike's since theirs was an entirely new creation (new post, etc.). We scheduled the install for Tuesday and I finished off the painting yesterday.
Monica and Ron started with a solid enough door… which is unusual. They had it replaced 8 or so years ago but when it came to priming and painting the door, the top and bottom edges were left raw and unpainted and the elements degraded the door and it began to delaminate. Ron also really, really, really wanted a doorknob with an escutcheon.
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Neighbors and friends, Mike and Mendi, were in need of a new door — two in fact (their bath exterior door is next)… and hit me up while on summer break. However, theirs is a bit more complex. It's a good thing Mike was there to lend a hand yesterday in the install even though, throughout the process, it became clear that it was actually Mendi's door. It was a nice chance to try a fresh install with some new materials.
Their previous door was not original and was converted to a Dutch door at some point by sawing it in half. Worse, it was an 80in door with a 4in filler strip at the top (the original was an 84in door). Worse still is a pesky detail in our carport models that the strike posts seem to not be anchored to the concrete below and are sitting directly on the concrete. This is the second time I've encountered this (first, with Erin's door) and it amazes me that these doors are still functional… nothing short of a toe-nail (or an L-bracket added much later as in this case) seems to be anchoring these posts to the ground. With one swift kick, Mike took out the post. This was fine as the post had seen better days anyway.
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If you've been watching the project, you know that the pool project has been successful, but a bit time consuming… not necessarily because it's been difficult, but because it's been out-of-the-ordinary and many stock solutions haven't been available. Plus, I'm pretty picky.
If you haven't followed along, here are the short-strokes:
One of the elements that's been delaying the project has been the choice of a new decking material. Previously, we had used cumaru — an "ironwood" that failed miserably. While beautiful on install, it swelled and destroyed itself. That was just one of the overall problems (cupping, splitting and maintenance were also significant concerns) and it left me searching for an alternate decking solution.
We had considered many, including a few systems that allowed for a stone or hard surface installation (if this fails, this is up next). Making the installation a tiny bit more difficult is that the pool looks best if there's a lip over the edge about 2in to hide the track and liner edge… again, nothing is easy, but I think we've found a solution.
In searching for a composite decking material, I came across CaliBamboo. It's difficult to find a composite that doesn't look like fake wood. I don't mind artificial or synthetic materials, but to make them look like their natural counterparts is somehow antithetical. CaliBamboo's BamDeck if a composite of HDPE plastic and bamboo fiber and the boards are double-sided… and neither are grained to look like wood. Instead, the texture is a striated surface similar to brushed concrete and it comes in a variety of appropriate colors, including one very close to the Burnt Hickory color we've used for the fence. In this install, however, I'll be using one of their planks that they market as a fascia board (again, nothing's easy)… the "square edge" which is a solid, non-grooved board. It's also available in the charcoal color we want.
However, having the previous deck fail with a hidden fastener system, I wanted to investigate another option. I had great success with the Camo Marksman system on an adjacent deck using mahogany, so I wanted to give it a try.
Results: So far, so good…
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The original Eames fiberglass chairs were, of course, groundbreaking in many ways: an innovative uses of materials, an interjection of color into businesses and homes, the creation of a "system" of shells and bases… and doing it, originally, at a fairly modest cost. Today, the irony is that these original examples are quite sought after and carry a high price tag. Our friends have a few "rope edge" chairs that are even more sought after, so scour your grandparents' basements, kids.
Avery contacted me to restore a few of her Eames fiberglass shell chairs. She had picked them up at her old University… undoubtedly bound for the skip. Being commercial chairs, they were originally fitted with stacking bases which are the least covetable of the variants. To use other bases, the shock mounts need to be relocated. We've done that before, so we took on the job.
These came to us in fairly rough shape. Someone had tried to relocate the original mounts unsuccessfully and in the process did a bit of damage to the fiberglass. They had used a variety of glues to try to adhere and re-adhere the mounts, but — as I mentioned to Avery: no worries — it's all part of the restoration process and price.
In short: We took the chairs in, (1) removed the old mounts, (2) ground off the original and re-applied glues, (3) affixed new mounts, (4) rejuvenated the surface, (5) fixed the damaged fiberglass spots, (6) balanced the bases, and (7) gave them a final polish… all in all giving new life to the chairs.
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A few months back, we replaced the redwood strips in the atrium… we got tired of sweeping rocks up and tripping from where we had to remove the decayed spacer strips. It was a success. This weekend, I tackled the driveway. The premise was the same, except the slope added a separate challenge.
The technique was similar, so see the old post for that. The sloping pieces were a bit shorter and cut at slight angles at the ends to facilitate the curve to match the slope. The were pocket-screwed together along the sides — a bit unnecessary, but it should help to keep them from lifting at the joints. You could also glue and side toe-nail them. Shims on the sides helped to keep things aligned and wedged in place until the adhesive and sand set. Once it dries and weathers a bit, it should look very original. (What you're seeing below is still very wet.)
Every Eichler owner's nightmare is having one of the large glass panes break. There are also a lot of misconceptions involved in what it might take to replace one — from the forfeiture of a kidney to having to separate the large pane into several smaller panels… or worse: vinyl.
A broken window is likely every Eichler owner's nightmare…
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Eichler Window Replacement (+ Dan’s Glass and Mistlite)Read More »
