{"id":4250,"date":"2021-06-05T08:01:27","date_gmt":"2021-06-05T08:01:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hunterwimmer.com\/redneckmodern\/2021\/06\/05\/malm-fireplace-conversion\/"},"modified":"2021-06-05T08:01:27","modified_gmt":"2021-06-05T08:01:27","slug":"malm-fireplace-conversion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hunterwimmer.com\/redneckmodern\/2021\/06\/05\/malm-fireplace-conversion\/","title":{"rendered":"Malm fireplace conversion"},"content":{"rendered":"

We were lucky enough to pick up a vintage Malm Zircon-38<\/a> fireplace last summer from a house that was doing some demo \u2014 that the piece only cost $75 (instead of 10X\u201320X that price) was the first shocker. Next, the ease of transitioning it to a gas (propane) fired fire-pit was the second one. All in, I think we're at about $500 tops.<\/p>\n

When we picked it up (thanks to my friend Bret for the lifting help), we knew it was going to take some TLC. It had been in a mid-century living room for years and was unloved a good bit of that time. Some of the bits were bent and some of the porcelain had chipped off (come to find out, this will be a recurring problem). But, as they say: "it has good bones" and was a perfect candidate for an outside fire-pit\/fireplace, so I got to work… It wasn't until the following year, however, that the conversion to a propane fuel source made sense (after the latest CA wildfire, I doubt we'll even light another wood-burning fire. With a pending s'mores-fueled birthday\/pool party, it was time to start the project.<\/p>\n

\"Malm\"<\/p>\n

[After]<\/span><\/p>\n


\n\"IMG_0436\"[It needed some TLC]<\/span><\/p>\n

Disassembly \/\/<\/strong> First, came the disassembly. All of the requisite pieces came apart easily. A few sheet metal screws and bolts were holding the five pieces (base, pan, shell, fire-stop and exhaust) together. It would be easier with two people, it but it's possible with one.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6859\"<\/p>\n

Plumbing \/\/<\/strong> Then came the daunting part \u2014 drilling for the burner. After measuring out all of the pieces, a 3\/4in hole was drilled in the original base for the propane burner \u2014 this was the only real modification as the base already drained (water) from the two corners and I saw no real need to put any more holes in the otherwise original base.<\/p>\n

All of the burner pieces were procured from Amazon. There are dozens of kits and bits out there, but I opted for the Stanbroil "Jet" version in an 18in circle. Our fireplace is the largest made at 38in, so most others might opt for the 12in ring. As-is, the 18in is a tiny bit big, but 12in would be too small in this version.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6854\"<\/p>\n

Restoration \/\/<\/strong> Next came the stripping and re-painting. The shell and exhaust pipes are porcelain enamel coated and are fairly impervious. The base, pan, and fire-stop, however, were raw steel with just a light oxide coating and needed some rust-repair. Fortunately, quick work with the grinding wheel found the pieces cleaned up and they were coated with Rust-Reformer and "Industrial" flat-black paint to retain the original look and be easily repaired. I'd have preferred to use POR-15<\/a> in the base of the pan, but a few heavy coats of gloss-black brake-caliper enamel that I had on hand gives it a fairly solid coating for durability (on the interior of the base only \u2014 where water might collect). The fire stop was coated with BBQ high-heat enamel.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6862\"<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6862\"<\/p>\n

Once the burner ring was assembled with the requisite bends and adapters, it was time to give it a test and it worked beautifully.<\/p>\n

Finishing \/\/<\/strong> Next came replacing the refractory cement. We could have likely opted for a simple decomposed granite or sand fill, but giving it a solid base was important for outside use (read: windy). The DIY refractory is made from 1\/2 mortar mix and 1\/2 perlite. I'd have opted for a 1\/2 mortar, 1\/4 perlite (crushed styrofoam), 1\/4 vermiculite (crushed coral), but vermiculite was not to be found locally. Additionally, the burner keeps all heat above the cement, so it simply needed to be solid. I used a block of plywood to keep the cement away from the burner plumbing location. When the cement was set (about 6 hours later), I removed the block, reconnected the burner and topped it all with decomposed granite. Then came the lava "stones" (important for fire-pit use as rocks have the tendency to expand and explode) and the ceramic logs.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7096\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The fire-pit is presently fed by poly tubing. Eventually, we might upgrade to 1\/2in galvanized pipe for the longest runs, but for now it's a very well functioning initial prototype.<\/p>\n

An on\/off valve is plumbed in a convenient location and is fed by a 20# propane tank. I created a Meranti (marine-grade luan plywood) and Batu-topped box to hide the tank. I might eventually paint or solid-stain the box, but finishing with oil was very time-efficient.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7096\"<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7096\"<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7096\"<\/p>\n

All in all, the broiler pieces were about $300-$350, paint was another $25 and the fire-pit itself was $75, so all-in we're at far less than $500… not bad for a restored, converted fireplace\/fire-pit that normally sells for more than $2,500. There's still a bit of fine-finishing to do \u2014 the porcelain chips very easily and needs to be sealed… but all in all, I'd consider it a finished project.<\/p>\n

Good luck with yours!<\/p>\n

Equipment \u2014 in no particular order. I'll screenshot the AMZ cart versus direct links \u2014 not to be cruel, but there's a bit of investigation and DIY-cred that comes from doing a bit more than clicking a few links. Use my shopping cart as a guide \u2014 not a parts-list. A few things to note:<\/p>\n